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GSE
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 Posted: 10 Nov 2015, 15:59 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 14 Oct 2015, 09:20
Posts: 2
Location: Somerset West
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Two months ago I bought a bright yellow 1989 Gse 1600. Those of you who frequent view Gumtree might have seen it for sale around august/September. It is in fantastic condition. I do not have any technical data and would like to know at what km intervals you have to change oil and filter and what oil do you recommend?. Do you need special tools to replace front wheel bearings?.
When I start the engine the oil light take about 10 seconds before it go out, is it normal?.
Already someone took pictures of my car on the N2 and M5 and I have to pay R400 per picture and the quality of picture is not even that good.
| Last edited by Viper1350 on 10 Nov 2015, 16:01, edited 1 time in total. |
| Topic moved to 'Q&A' |
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Viper1350
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Posted: 10 Nov 2015, 16:03 |
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| Filter, Exhaust, Branch & Chip |
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Joined: 29 Apr 2009, 17:32
Posts: 2018
Location: Bellville
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Hi As far as I know, Opels get serviced every 15 000 km or every year. Whichever comes first. I'm not sure about which oil you should use in your car nor which tools you'll need to do the wheel bearings. Please go to the newbie section and introduce yourself there so we know who we're talking to and stuff  Thanks  _________________ Daily Lady: 2008 Yamaha YZF R6 - Hannah Project: 2005 Corsa C 1.4i Club - Charlotte "Just a 1400 with a loud exhaust and a cone filter"  Build/Banter thread : viewtopic.php?f=30&t=26607Ex Daily Lady: 2014 KTM Duke 390 - Lady Katlin (RIP) Ex Adrenaline Rush: 1997 Suzuki GSX-R 750 SRAD Ex Daily: 1992 VW Fox 1600
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cyberpuppy
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Posted: 10 Nov 2015, 16:41 |
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| Filter, Exhaust & Branch |
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Joined: 06 Aug 2012, 09:31
Posts: 816
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You should change your oil every 7500km, regardless of what the book says. You can chop that in half again if it's a turbo. Do that, and you will easily see 500 000km out of an engine.
_________________
2007 Subaru Forester XT
197kW and 380Nm of home-cooked, GTI embarrassing tuning. With a little help from Powerflow
ex:
2005 Coupe 168kW 350Nm From Evo Performance
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Corsa Addict
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Posted: 10 Nov 2015, 19:54 |
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Joined: 29 May 2007, 13:54
Posts: 49717
Location: Paarl...ex Durbs
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GSE wrote: Already someone took pictures of my car on the N2 and M5 and I have to pay R400 per picture and the quality of picture is not even that good. ? 
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Opel Club Cape Town Member
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RekordErik
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Posted: 10 Nov 2015, 21:14 |
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Joined: 02 Jan 2013, 23:09
Posts: 260
Location: Hekelingen, Holland
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CA, this man has a heavy right foot (R400 a picture is not just a little over the limit). 
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2001 Corsa C 1.7 DI 3drs - completely standard with very little luxury.
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Mr Lupini
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Posted: 11 Nov 2015, 14:15 |
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| Opel Club Cape Town AFFILIATE |
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Joined: 16 Mar 2007, 09:43
Posts: 32589
Location: Supposedly I am in Cape Town
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with the older 8v it was 10000kms per interval I do believe - so you can use normal oil , almost any brand that's multigrade . don't waste the cash on semi or full synthetic
the long oil light could be the oil pump that's dying - cos of age - so its taking a while to build pressure
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'SOFAKENWAT'
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Gouraami
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Posted: 12 Nov 2015, 11:30 |
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| Filter, Exhaust, Branch & Chip |
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Joined: 16 Aug 2008, 19:30
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All your Kaddet E questions will be answered in this pdf. http://users.net1.cc/pafkata/personal/S ... Manual.pdfI agree with Lupi about the 10 000km and the oil light/pressure, but could also be sludge build up at the oil intake pipe strainer in the sump. I however do not agree with the semi oil, it is good stuff. It is very easy to get a R400 fine nowadays! 76 in a 60 Zone will do the trick
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1996 200is 312000km,272 Kent cam,4-1branch, 57mm Powerflow exhaust, fully balanced bottom end, DIY ported
Short Shift mod
Complete with - cracked windscreen, fading boot spoiler + bumpers, melted fusebox, incorrect grill, no headliner,cracked front disks, warped rear, 1X buckled and scraped mag 2X buckled
Gomoto GT125 71000km, 7kw of frame bending power :-) Still the most reliable vehicle I have owned
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cyberpuppy
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Posted: 12 Nov 2015, 12:33 |
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| Filter, Exhaust & Branch |
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Joined: 06 Aug 2012, 09:31
Posts: 816
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Semi or full synthetic oil only lasts longer. Regular old mineral oil just needs to be changed more often, i.e. 10k instead of 15k.
_________________
2007 Subaru Forester XT
197kW and 380Nm of home-cooked, GTI embarrassing tuning. With a little help from Powerflow
ex:
2005 Coupe 168kW 350Nm From Evo Performance
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Gouraami
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Posted: 12 Nov 2015, 15:33 |
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| Filter, Exhaust, Branch & Chip |
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Joined: 16 Aug 2008, 19:30
Posts: 2149
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If you feel the difference between mineral and synthetic between your fingers you will change you mind
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1996 200is 312000km,272 Kent cam,4-1branch, 57mm Powerflow exhaust, fully balanced bottom end, DIY ported
Short Shift mod
Complete with - cracked windscreen, fading boot spoiler + bumpers, melted fusebox, incorrect grill, no headliner,cracked front disks, warped rear, 1X buckled and scraped mag 2X buckled
Gomoto GT125 71000km, 7kw of frame bending power :-) Still the most reliable vehicle I have owned
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cyberpuppy
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Posted: 12 Nov 2015, 16:12 |
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| Filter, Exhaust & Branch |
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Joined: 06 Aug 2012, 09:31
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Gouraami wrote: If you feel the difference between mineral and synthetic between your fingers you will change you mind Ja I suppose, but I will also point out that the Mazda rotaries require mineral oil. Yes, it's because the rotary works almost like a two-stroke but it also shows that mineral oil is just fine even for a highly stressed performance engine.
_________________
2007 Subaru Forester XT
197kW and 380Nm of home-cooked, GTI embarrassing tuning. With a little help from Powerflow
ex:
2005 Coupe 168kW 350Nm From Evo Performance
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