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Shamiel
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Posted: 02 Sep 2012, 21:15 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 23:43 Posts: 49
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I need advice on my sound
I have 2 Dvc 12 subs running off a 4000watt Ice Power Mono. 1st my fuse (40watt) that's on live wire at batt that supply the amp popped. I then put in a 60watt and it popped again. I then but in a blade fuse 175wat and it didn't blow but now my amp cuts out and the red protection light goes on. When I put front loader off and then on again the amp is playing put as soon as I put volume on 20 ( and front loader can go to 60) then amps go off and red protection light goes on. I did check all the wiring and also found no burn smell coming from amp.
I need advice. Thanks.
_________________ His2003 Astra G 2l 16v Hers2009 Yaris T1 http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u51 ... 17377a.jpg
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GTurbz
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 07:58 |
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| Filter, Exhaust, Branch & Chip |
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Joined: 21 Jun 2011, 16:25 Posts: 1307 Location: Unknown
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it sounds more like there is either too much current running through to your amp, but that shouldn't be the situation, as you have a amplifier kit installed. I would check the amp & it's fuses. See whether the fuse is not faulty at the amp. This might be the problem.
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Tino
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 08:08 |
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007, 15:02 Posts: 6250 Location: The Chuck's Hideout
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Never replace a fuse with one with a bigger rating! Sure way to melt wiring!
_________________ .\X/.killa
2001 E39 530d 1987 E30 325i (RB25DET)
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GTurbz
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 08:10 |
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| Filter, Exhaust, Branch & Chip |
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Joined: 21 Jun 2011, 16:25 Posts: 1307 Location: Unknown
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Tino wrote: Never replace a fuse with one with a bigger rating! Sure way to melt wiring! 
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Shamiel
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 11:03 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 23:43 Posts: 49
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I did check the fuse with the test light and evrything ok. I tried to play only the one sub from amp but still get same results. If you say to much current to amp - what must I do 2 reduce it.
_________________ His2003 Astra G 2l 16v Hers2009 Yaris T1 http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u51 ... 17377a.jpg
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Chez 200is
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 11:47 |
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| Filter, Exhaust & Branch |
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012, 10:15 Posts: 913
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Howzit Shamiel  , Is the CSX still going nicely? Sorry to hear about the amp problems. Ask someone to take out all the existing wires and replace them with new wires. I found a website which show your different size wires to use for the specific RMS your amp puts out or power your speakers can take. http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.aspGood luck Brother.
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8 Valves of glory
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 12:41 |
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| Cams, ITB's, Headjob, Management |
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Joined: 18 Jul 2008, 12:15 Posts: 3914 Location: Lost
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Tino wrote: Never replace a fuse with one with a bigger rating! Sure way to melt wiring! correct... dont go bigger than the size they recommend for the amp. also how do you have the subs wired to the amp? i think that it might be the way your subs are wired. give the specs of the subs as well as the amp... more specifically the ohms. i think you might be overloading your amp hence it going into protection. don't try playing the volume higher unless you want to say goodbye to the amp. first have someone check it out for you.
_________________ Current: 98 Ballade 180i EX: Monza CD16V Ex: GSI Boss 8 valve
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Shamiel
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 13:15 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 23:43 Posts: 49
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Hi Cheslyn, CSX still going strong. Did you buy that CSX?
That site is very helpful will compare that info tonight.
8valve thanks for the adviCe. I have Ice power 4000watt monoblock class D. The subs is 1400watt champion series pioneer subs, have to open the box to check the omhs. I did the installation my self. Have live from batt and remote wire from deck. I wired each sub on one channel. I am thinking of replacing all the cabling this weekend as I do have spare set amp kit. What can I still do.
_________________ His2003 Astra G 2l 16v Hers2009 Yaris T1 http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u51 ... 17377a.jpg
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Shamiel
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 13:18 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 23:43 Posts: 49
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8 Valves of glory
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 14:29 |
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| Cams, ITB's, Headjob, Management |
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Joined: 18 Jul 2008, 12:15 Posts: 3914 Location: Lost
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you need to see the ohms the amp can handle and wire your subs to match what the amp can handle.
i'm going to post a few wiring diagrams just to give you an idea of what you should be doing.
if possible maybe post the models of your subs and amp. that way we can google the specs and give you an idea of how your subs should be wired
_________________ Current: 98 Ballade 180i EX: Monza CD16V Ex: GSI Boss 8 valve
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8 Valves of glory
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 15:13 |
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| Cams, ITB's, Headjob, Management |
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Joined: 18 Jul 2008, 12:15 Posts: 3914 Location: Lost
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_________________ Current: 98 Ballade 180i EX: Monza CD16V Ex: GSI Boss 8 valve
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8 Valves of glory
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 15:27 |
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| Cams, ITB's, Headjob, Management |
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Joined: 18 Jul 2008, 12:15 Posts: 3914 Location: Lost
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oh yes i only used 4ohm as examples because those are the subs i had.
for your subs you would obviously use different diagrams depending on your subs and amp.
the diagrams can also be found on the 12volt link posted by cheslyn
_________________ Current: 98 Ballade 180i EX: Monza CD16V Ex: GSI Boss 8 valve
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Shamiel
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 20:38 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 23:43 Posts: 49
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Shamiel
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Posted: 03 Sep 2012, 21:39 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 23:43 Posts: 49
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Dit my gepla toe gaan krap ek ma. All this info was on the amp and subs. Subs Pioneer - TS-W307D4 1200w max 400 NOM 4ohms DVC
Amplifier Ice Power - PS4000D Pro-series amplifiers Class D Mono channel Digital circuitry Max 4000watts
This on left side of amp 1. Line input - (RCA) 2. Red bulb - Thermal. Prot 3. White bulb - Power and Prot 4. Level (control knob) 5. LFP (control knob) 6. Bass boost (control knob) 7. Phase shift (control knob) 8. Remote (plug) 9. Line out (RCA)
Right side of amp 1. Earth wire 2. Remote wire 3. Live wire 4. 4 fuses (30amp each) 5. 2 channels for subs
Before my amp cuts out then the white bulb is green. When it cuts out then white bulb turns orange. My set is as follow. Each Sub is connected seperated to one channel. - positive connect to positive on sub and then to amp positive. The same with the neg.
Hope u can now advice me with this info.
_________________ His2003 Astra G 2l 16v Hers2009 Yaris T1 http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u51 ... 17377a.jpg
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8 Valves of glory
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Posted: 04 Sep 2012, 08:15 |
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| Cams, ITB's, Headjob, Management |
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Joined: 18 Jul 2008, 12:15 Posts: 3914 Location: Lost
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Shamiel wrote: Dit my gepla toe gaan krap ek ma. All this info was on the amp and subs. Subs Pioneer - TS-W307D4 1200w max 400 NOM 4ohms DVC
Amplifier Ice Power - PS4000D Pro-series amplifiers Class D Mono channel Digital circuitry Max 4000watts
This on left side of amp 1. Line input - (RCA) 2. Red bulb - Thermal. Prot 3. White bulb - Power and Prot 4. Level (control knob) 5. LFP (control knob) 6. Bass boost (control knob) 7. Phase shift (control knob) 8. Remote (plug) 9. Line out (RCA)
Right side of amp 1. Earth wire 2. Remote wire 3. Live wire 4. 4 fuses (30amp each) 5. 2 channels for subs
Before my amp cuts out then the white bulb is green. When it cuts out then white bulb turns orange. My set is as follow. Each Sub is connected seperated to one channel. - positive connect to positive on sub and then to amp positive. The same with the neg.
Hope u can now advice me with this info. ok your amp can handle 1ohm. so the 1st diagram should be fine. and you should be using a 120amp fuse. is that a new amp you using?
_________________ Current: 98 Ballade 180i EX: Monza CD16V Ex: GSI Boss 8 valve
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Igshaan
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Posted: 04 Sep 2012, 08:53 |
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| Upgraded to a Flatbed Filter |
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Joined: 20 Jul 2007, 16:30 Posts: 161 Location: Cape Town
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Hi Shamiel i think i know where your problem is. Where are you from. PM me. Is this the amp you using (one on the left). If it is..I have the same amp as you can see 
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Shamiel
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Posted: 04 Sep 2012, 11:25 |
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| Cruising with a Cone Filter |
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 23:43 Posts: 49
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No its a second hand one. My setup is like diagram 1 only diff is that each sub is on a channel as I have two channels. So I will try and bridge the channels as per diagram.
Thanks buddie.
_________________ His2003 Astra G 2l 16v Hers2009 Yaris T1 http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u51 ... 17377a.jpg
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8 Valves of glory
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Posted: 04 Sep 2012, 11:43 |
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| Cams, ITB's, Headjob, Management |
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Joined: 18 Jul 2008, 12:15 Posts: 3914 Location: Lost
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your setup is fine. inside the amp it goes to one channel so don't change anything.
check with Igshaan or if you close to woodstock you can come around to my place after working hours to check it out.
i have a feeling it's the amp thats not 100%.
_________________ Current: 98 Ballade 180i EX: Monza CD16V Ex: GSI Boss 8 valve
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Igshaan
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Posted: 04 Sep 2012, 13:13 |
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| Upgraded to a Flatbed Filter |
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Joined: 20 Jul 2007, 16:30 Posts: 161 Location: Cape Town
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I am very much sure that its in the wiring of your speakers. Check that out first before you do anything else. If there is nothing wrong with the amp then your next step is to check the wiring. Remove the subs out of the box and see if the positive is on positive and vice versa. If you have a positive (on the sub) connected to a negative on the amp then it will work and play. but the moment you increase the volume your amp will cut out as the load is wrong. I have been running that amp for years and never had a problem with it. Thats my second 4000W im using. Sold the other one. And im running 2X XTC 2500 subs on the amp on 1ohm stable. And believe it or not. i am not running a fuse. For all these years I never ran with a fuse. in the pic you can see the 200A digital fuse in the middle but it's not connected. And that is a great amp. not the best of amps but it can take a load  .......... let me us know the outcome.
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8 Valves of glory
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Posted: 04 Sep 2012, 15:43 |
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| Cams, ITB's, Headjob, Management |
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Joined: 18 Jul 2008, 12:15 Posts: 3914 Location: Lost
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Igshaan wrote: I am very much sure that its in the wiring of your speakers. Check that out first before you do anything else. If there is nothing wrong with the amp then your next step is to check the wiring. Remove the subs out of the box and see if the positive is on positive and vice versa. If you have a positive (on the sub) connected to a negative on the amp then it will work and play. but the moment you increase the volume your amp will cut out as the load is wrong. I have been running that amp for years and never had a problem with it. Thats my second 4000W im using. Sold the other one. And im running 2X XTC 2500 subs on the amp on 1ohm stable. And believe it or not. i am not running a fuse. For all these years I never ran with a fuse. in the pic you can see the 200A digital fuse in the middle but it's not connected. And that is a great amp. not the best of amps but it can take a load  .......... let me us know the outcome. correct those amps are die hard and they can really take a punch. the newer ice power amps don't compare to them. my bro used to run 2 triangle subs from his as well and it never gave problems. if i didn't have the rockford amp i would probably have been on the hunt for one of those 
_________________ Current: 98 Ballade 180i EX: Monza CD16V Ex: GSI Boss 8 valve
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