Opel Club Cape Town

FPR regulate fuel pressure as the name says. They don't produce any kw, nor will they affect your kw reading. They simply keep the fuel pressure constant in relation to the manifold pressure so that an injector pulse will let through a known set amount of fuel reliably, no matter the pressure in the manifold.

The standard one is fine, reliable, but it might not fit physically with the ITB fuel rail so you might have to get another.

There are static pressure regulators, in relation to atmospheric pressure, but then you need a MAF sensor and your ecu must take care of the variation in manifold pressure.

Adjustable FPR is for the most part unnecessary. Guys are tempted to turn on there, but in reality you are throwing the whole fuel mapping out of whack. You can only change that pressure pre-mapping.



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Ex:'05 Opel Corsa Lite+
Ex:'85 Opel Ascona GSi

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere" - Colin Chapman

I see you thinking of not going with the 16v pistons.

With throttles you gain the ability to pull more air through the head and run higher lift&duration cams. These high lift and longer duration cams cause your dynamic compression to drop as the valves stay open longer and overlap more. To counter this dropping dynamic compression ratio you have to increase the static compression ratio beyond what is normally possible to bring the dynamic compression ratio up.

Static compression ratio is the ratio of the volume of the combustion chamber at TDC to the volume at BDC.

Dynamic compression ratio is the real compression ratio when the engine is running.

The way to up static compression is to add more "meat" on the top surface of the piston. You will see high comp race pistons actually have a dome on top with cutouts for the valves. So the 16v is going to add a little more meat than the 8v pistons and up the compression. The other way to increase compression is to skim the head and or block. You would probably need 16v pistons and block/head skimmed.

You should have someone who specialises in race engines advise you on the range of cam profiles that would be suitable for your specific ITBs and intended use. As well as work out what the static ratio should be and how to best achieve it. As mentioned before, go speak to Warren at BSE or someone with similar expertise.

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Ex:'05 Opel Corsa Lite+
Ex:'85 Opel Ascona GSi

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere" - Colin Chapman

Hi dan..thanx for all the useful info..I will make a turn at bse sometime to speak Warren regarding my build..much appreciated

Bump! So this project will continue

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Fear is just words
But driving an Opel is a reality.

nice

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'SOFAKENWAT'

indeed it will

stripped engine bay yesterday.sent mountings away for poly. will resleave lights loom and remove ecu and 1.6 loom and fit the 2L loom today and sand the engine bay as I am changing the colour again

this is a beautiful project....well done....

Thanx

so last night I stripped abit more and removed firewall mat and steering rack..whole suspension is apart as ill be buying new tie rods and rack
ends. Collecting poly mountings later. Break discs fitted to new hubs.breal discs seem to be warped though and could be the cause for the shudder when I break cause the whole steering wheel vibrates

Dai bakkie gan dai rooi opc weer n harde tyd gee lol

_________________
Fear is just words
But driving an Opel is a reality.

Lol noooit..maybe if I do throttles yes but I just need it as a daily drive..had a setback to dummy fit the block to make mounting but will do it next week..

removed loom solong. Alot of advice from carl so thanx for that

When old hoppers aren't needed anymore, they become engine supports. Lmk...

Did you get the loom with the engine when you bought it?

Hi buddy

yes i did but wont be using it

Running a complete new loom? My gat is jikkerig cause I am sitting with a B shape bakkie too but the power is not nice at all, spoke to Viper but decided that I can only do work on it when I also have other transport, sucks working night shifts in a hotel as nobody could drop or fetch me.

going the dicktator 60-2 route, there is/was a complete 2l 8v motor with box n shafts etc on fb for R7000

R7000?? Yoh mos nothing that, I want to go the X18XE route and then throttles, and then just keep the engine stock as it will be my daily car. However I am k@k scared of the electrics as I can't just sommer sort it out. I would even pay somebody to do it but taking it to a professional mech will only result in no more money. The only thing keeping me from doing that is the electrics, and I would then only have a month leave to sort it all out and be back on the road in a month. Regarding other's '2 day builds', not gonna mention anything , would be a prob if that 2 days turned into 2 months...

any updates

_________________
Fear is just words
But driving an Opel is a reality.

the man bought a opc

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Hers:Opel Corsa Chill 1.3


His: Are you kidding me???? When married it states
"What is yours is mine what is MINE is MINE!!!!


Ours: Chevrolet Cruze 1.6L